Amazing Artists Reveal how to Take the Best Travel Photos
I
quickly learned the reality that photography is a
skill that takes time, effort, and practice to
master.
It’s also not a question of gear — great
travel photography is very much about the
photographer.
In this post, I’ll give you the 8 simple tavel
photography tips you need to take better pictures
right away. If you follow these rules, you won’t
go wrong!
1. Composition: Taking Pictures People REALLY
Want
Patterns: the human brain is a sucker for them.
We’re always looking for patterns — be
they shapes in the clouds, symmetry in buildings, or
colors that compliment each other. There’s just
something about a pattern that our brains love.
Understanding these patterns and what pleases the
human brain is a nifty shortcut to taking better
photos. And that’s what composition in
photography is all about. Learn and apply the rules
below, and you’ll start taking more photos that
people will enjoy.
Before launching into them, though, some important
basics. First, ensure that your camera is level. You
don’t want wonky horizons. Your brain generally
doesn’t like them; they’re the visual
equivalent of nails on a chalkboard.
Next — stop moving. You want to be as still as
possible when shooting to avoid blurry images. Hold
your camera with both hands and be steady, or use a
tripod.
2. The Rule of Thirds
One of the most important rules of composition is
known as the rule of thirds.
I learned recently that this is based on how babies
learn to identify their mothers’ faces, which
can be split up into three parts, comprising the eyes,
nose, and mouth.
The rule of thirds requires you to break an image into
three equal parts either vertically, horizontally or
both. The goal is to place key compositional elements
into those thirds.
On your device, find the setting to enable a grid over
the preview screen. Four lines will appear, two
vertical and two horizontal.
Take a look at my shot above of a surreal sculpture
park deep in the Australian outback, over which I have
overlaid a grid to demonstrate the horizontal and
vertical thirds.
With the grid, you can see how I have composed the
image: one-third land and two-thirds sky, while the
plane on the left is on the left-hand grid line, close
to the intersection of two lines.
Placing subjects on the intersecting points will
naturally draw the viewer’s eye to them, as
these points are usually where we focus first in an
image, and doing so is a great starting point for a
good composition.
Another of my favorite subjects to shoot is a sunset.
I love how they are always different and how wonderful
the light is at that time of day.
To get a great sunset shot, you can easily apply the
rule of thirds — composing the shot with
two-thirds sky, and one-third land or sea. You want to
avoid splitting the image half and half, as it
won’t look as good. The shot below of a sunset
in Santa Cruz illustrates this and also has an
interesting subject in the left third of the
image.
3. Leading Lines
When composing a photograph, you want to make it as
easy as possible for the person looking at it to
figure out the subject and focus of the image.
One way to do this is with leading lines — the
use of natural geography or other features that the
viewer will naturally look at first and which will
lead their eyes to the main subject.
Roads are excellent as leading lines, particularly in
big landscape shots. When I was traveling in New
Zealand, I wanted to create a photographic story of
the hike up Mount Taranaki, one of my favorite New
Zealand hikes. Near the start of hike, the walking
trail itself gave me a perfect leading line to
illustrate the journey ahead, drawing the
viewer’s eye into the frame and up to the
mountain.
Another good illustration of a leading line is this
shot of me walking on railway tracks in Italy.
Obviously, it’s only advisable on either disused
or somewhat infrequently used tracks!
The goal for this image was a self-portrait that
evoked my life of travel. The parallel tracks, which
appear to converge, were perfect for leading the
viewer’s eye to the subject — me. I felt I
captured the imagery of wanderlust that I was looking
for by using them.
4. Foreground, Midground, and
Background
Have you ever taken a picture of a mountain or city
skyline and then looked at it later and wondered why
it doesn’t manage to convey the majesty of what
you were looking at?
This is likely because your photograph is a
two-dimensional image and you have lost the sense of
scale that is apparent when you are present and in the
moment.
When composing a shot — and this is particularly
true for landscape photography — think about the
different elements in the foreground, midground, and
background of the shot.
Here’s an example of a sunset in Glencoe,
Scotland, easily the most stunning place I’ve
photographed in 2015.
I used the rock in this frozen lake to provide
something interesting in the foreground, helping to
provide scale and balance to the overall image. The
viewer’s eye is drawn to the rock, and then
likely to the mountain and sunset, before heading into
the distance of the valley.
When you are out and about in the world, think about
everything around you. If you see a far-off mountain
you want to shoot, look around and see if you can find
something interesting in the foreground or midground
to incorporate into the shot. If you’re near a
river, maybe that could be a canoe. Elsewhere it could
be a house. Or a group of sheep. Or a car starting to
scale a winding road.
If you’re shooting a city scene, look at what is
happening all around you. Street vendors, different
modes of transport, and signs and storefronts can all
be incorporated as foreground to provide context and
scale for your city skyline or that interestingly
shaped building.
If you can’t find something, be creative. Find
someone to stand in your shot to provide that scale.
If you’re travelling with a tripod, do what I
did in that railway shot and use yourself as the
subject. Just remember not to confuse your viewer too
much with too many compositional elements, and keep it
clear what the photo is of.
Thinking beyond the big background parts of the image
and focusing on the smaller elements will help you
create more balanced, pleasing images.
Another shot from Glencoe. Here the house provides
that midground scale, while the river works both as an
interesting foreground subject and as a leading line
to draw you into the photograph.
5. Framing
This compositional technique isn’t about hanging
a picture in a frame; it’s about using
what’s around you to “frame” the
subject you are trying to capture, illustrating to the
viewer what the shot is of and drawing their eyes into
the scene.
In this shot of the bridge into the medieval town of
Besalú in Spain, I used the old bridge and its
reflection as a natural frame for the newer
bridge.
When you have found your subject, look around to see
if there’s a way you can frame it creatively.
Some good options for framing include vegetation, like
tree branches and trees, as well as doors and
windows.
Take a look at this shot of a temple in Ayutthaya,
Thailand, to see what I mean. I wanted to capture the
beauty of this temple scene while drawing the viewer
into the wat in the center.
The frame in this case is much larger than the
subject, but it is never unclear what the shot is of.
This is a really easy photography technique, but it
might require you to scout around, or step back from
your subject, to find a good way to frame it.
Don’t be afraid to stand further away and use
the zoom on your lens to get the frame you want.
As another example, using trees to frame a waterfall,
here’s a shot of Lower Yosemite Falls in
Yosemite National Park.
I felt that the trees added much more to the shot with
the waterfall between them. There was a pleasing
symmetry to the shot with the two parallel
trees.
There are many more options for framing. Experiment
and see what works!
6. Focal Points
One way to be sure that people look at the part of the
image you want them to look at is to have only that
part of the image sharp and in focus and the rest
blurry.
This is particularly effective for isolating people or
animals in shots — take a look at wedding or
sports photos of people, and you’ll see how
often the subject of the shot is the only thing in
focus.
I love shooting events with friends and family, and I
find that this technique works really well at
isolating the subject from a crowd and making it
obvious who the photo is of.
To start with, you can achieve this effect with the
“portrait” or “people” mode on
your camera. You can see some more examples of subject
isolation through focus here.
7. Use of Color
Color is really important in photography, particularly
how different colors work well together. For example,
blue works well with yellow (sunflowers in a field),
and red works well with green (Christmas!).
To figure out which colors work well together, take a
look at this color wheel.
Generally, colors opposite each other on the wheel
will complement each other. These colors don’t
need to be evenly balanced in a shot — often
images work best with a small percentage of one and a
greater percentage of another.
Take a look at the shot above, from Copenhagen’s
gorgeous Nyhavn Harbor. You can see all sorts of
colors, but in particular, the blue of the sky and
water is the predominant color, with the houses’
reds and yellows (yellow is opposite blue on the color
wheel) offering a counterpoint.
When you are on your travels, keep an eye out for
contrasting and complimentary colors that you can
incorporate into your shots. Spice markets, old
European cities, rural meadows, and old colorful barns
in green fields are a great place to start.
8. Storytelling
Remember that when you are taking a picture, you have
all the background and surrounding knowledge of your
trip in your mind. When you look at the image later,
all of that will come back to you.
No one else has that advantage. To them, that shot of
a waterfall is just that — a shot of a
waterfall. The story of the five-hour hike there
through a leech-infested jungle? Lost. The feeling of
how refreshing it was on your skin when you took the
plunge in to cool off? Also gone. It’s just a
two-dimensional image on a screen, likely quickly
flicked by to be replaced by the next image in the
stream.
It’s your job to bring all that lost context to
life.
We’re often told that a photograph is worth a
thousand words. As a photographer, it’s your job
to convey those words. Figure out how to tell that
story with your image. Get the shots that pull your
viewers into your stories. Use emotion, find and
freeze moments, and incorporate the human element so
your shots resonate with your viewers.
Take this monkey in Rio de Janeiro. These guys were
being really cheeky with tourists, trying to get food
from them and generally playing around as much as
possible. I wanted to try and capture some of that,
and I managed to get this monkey sticking its tongue
out at me.
I’d advise spending time thinking about the shot
you are trying to create, the moment you are trying to
capture, and the story you are trying to tell your
viewer. Put yourself into their shoes, imagine you are
going to be looking at the shot with no other context,
and try to build the shot from there.
This is probably one of the harder parts of
photography, and — like the shot of the monkeys
above — will likely require some time, patience,
and luck. You will make errors. But with research and
practice, you will be able to master it!